October 13th 2003 Cont'd
We carried on down the Panamerican, intending to visit the Tucume archeological
site, before heading onto Sipán, another archeological site to
camp for the night. But we missed the turning (it's the big huge massive
junction where the old Panamerican joins the new Panamerican) and headed
through Lambayeque and into Chiclayo. We found a hotel that allowed us
to use their car park for a couple of hours, wandered around town, went
to the market and bought some veg and fruit (Sue couldn't bring herself
to buy any "fresh" meat from the market), had lunch and checked
up on emails. We still couldn't find any road maps for sale.
We then headed out of town for Sipán, also known as La Huaca Rayada.
The site was discovered in 1987 by grave robbers. As objects then started
to appear on the black market, local archaeologists realised that a burial
site must be being ransacked. A number of tombs were found, including
a royal Moche burial, the Lord of Sipán. This was the most interesting
tomb, and supposedly the most intact one in Peru. Lord of Sipán
was a divine Mochica leader and accordingly he was buried in all his finery
- along with three women, two assistants, a servant, a child, a dog and
two llamas who were all buried alive with him! In one corner there was
also the skeleton of a warrior guard whose feet had been amputated, possibly
to stop him running away. There were a number of other excavated tombs
also, all within the Moche pyramids, which from a distance look just like
huge hills with various caves (see the middle two pictures below).
When we arrived we were surrounded by kids, wanting to guide
us through the ruins and look after our car. We spoke to the guard about
camping and he opened up the gates behind the visitors centre and allowed
us to camp there, safely locked away from all the kids! We were able to
use the visitors centre toilets and shower (no, Ed still hasn't fitted
ours). There was no charge as such for camping, but a donation was gratefully
received. (The site is guarded all night)
We had the place pretty much to ourselves as it was late
in the afternoon. We wandered around and were eventually collared by Julio
(see pic above). He wasn't supposed to be guiding but he was very knowledgeable
and determined to show us around. He was a funny little chap and worth
the entertainment!
Click
here for the Sipan Gallery
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